Nicholas Kristof

writes about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge issue from ground zero and almost zero-degree weather. He asks people in the area what they think of the drilling issue.

And somehow he lives to tell the tale:

"One of those bears, a grizzly, approached as I was preparing for lunch, then lumbered away. I'm packing bear spray, a kind of Mace used to fend off grizzlies and polar bears. Walt Audi, a legendary bush pilot here, explained how to use the spray: 'If a bear attacks you, just spray yourself in the face, and you won't see it.' So it's hard to feel this is a place where humans are in charge. And that is precisely why the that makes the Arctic region so special."